Fort Hays, nestled near the modern city of Hays, Kansas, is a historical gem that offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the past. Established during a tumultuous period in American history, this site played a pivotal role in the American Indian Wars and the westward expansion of the United States. Today, it stands as a testament to the resilience and determination of those who lived and worked on the frontier.
Originally named Fort Fletcher, the fort was established on October 11, 1865, to protect the Butterfield Overland Despatch stage and freight wagons traveling the Smoky Hill Trail from attacks by the Cheyenne and Arapaho tribes. Named after Missouri’s governor at the time, Thomas C. Fletcher, the fort was strategically located near the confluence of Big Creek and the North Fork of Big Creek in western Kansas. Despite the military presence, raids continued, leading to the fort’s temporary closure in May 1866.
However, the need for protection along the expanding Union Pacific Eastern Division railway led to the fort’s reopening on October 11, 1866, at a new site slightly to the north. Renamed Fort Hays in honor of Brigadier General Alexander Hays, who was killed in the Battle of the Wilderness during the Civil War, the fort faced numerous challenges, including a devastating flood in June 1867 that nearly destroyed it.
Due to the flood and the need to be closer to the railway, the fort was relocated 15 miles northwest to its final location near the railway crossing at Big Creek. This move attracted settlers and led to the establishment of the nearby communities of Rome and Hays City. The fort’s reservation occupied a triangular area of approximately 7,500 acres and included around 45 buildings at its peak.
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Fort Hays was not a traditional fortification with walls and battlements; instead, it resembled a frontier settlement with a blockhouse as its only defensive structure. It served as a base for supplies and troops who were dispatched to protect vulnerable areas during conflicts with Plains Indians. The fort became a key installation during the Indian Wars, serving as a base of operations for Major General Philip Sheridan and the 7th Cavalry Regiment under Lieutenant Colonel George Custer.
Notable figures such as Buffalo Bill Cody and Wild Bill Hickok served as scouts at Fort Hays during this period. The fort also housed elements of the 10th Cavalry Regiment, known as the Buffalo Soldiers, and the 38th Infantry Regiment. The fort’s history is marked by a cholera epidemic in 1867, which claimed the life of Elizabeth Polly, a hospital matron who became a local legend known as the Blue Light Lady.
After its closure in 1889, the site of Fort Hays went through several transformations. In 1900, the U.S. Congress donated the reservation to the state of Kansas for use as an agricultural experiment station and a branch of the Kansas State Normal School, which eventually became Fort Hays State University. The majority of the fort’s buildings were auctioned off or sold for scrap in 1902, but what remained was reopened as Frontier Historical Park in 1929.
Today, the Kansas Historical Society operates the Fort Hays State Historic Site, which includes a visitor center, the fort’s parade ground, and four original buildings: the blockhouse, the guardhouse, and two officers’ quarters. The blockhouse, built in 1867, and the guardhouse, built in 1872, house exhibits on the fort’s history and construction. The restored officers’ quarters feature furnishings from the 1860s through the 1880s, providing a window into the lives of those who resided at the fort.
Visitors to the Fort Hays State Historic Site can immerse themselves in the rich history of the American frontier. The visitor center, built in 1967, offers exhibits on the conflicts between the U.S. and the Plains Indians, as well as artifacts from the period. The grounds also feature commemorative exhibits representing the civilians who lived and worked at the fort and the locations of the post’s original buildings.
Fort Hays has been associated with several notable individuals, including Major George A. Armes, Brigadier General Louis H. Carpenter, and Surgeon General George M. Sternberg. It also played a role in popular culture, serving as a setting for films such as The Plainsman (1936) and Dances with Wolves (1990).
In conclusion, Fort Hays is not just a historical site; it is a living monument to the courage and perseverance of those who shaped the American frontier. Its well-preserved buildings and informative exhibits offer a captivating journey through a pivotal era in U.S. history, making it a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts and casual tourists alike.
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